Lisbon after 2 AM: where the hill goes

Around two the bars in Bairro Alto pull their shutters and the street empties in ten minutes. It looks like the night is over. It is moving. The whole crowd walks down toward the river, to Cais do Sodré and the pink-painted Rua Nova do Carvalho.

Down there the choice is a club, a bar with a dance floor, or a bifana. The clubs charge; the bars mostly do not. Nothing is far. If you lose your friends you will find them at the bifana place.

Fado is a different night entirely. Alfama, small rooms, late, no dinner package. Go after ten, order wine, be quiet when the singer stands. It is the opposite of Pink Street and the same city.